The diagram also shows that fittings are required to the carb/FI l. There are ready-made
kits (such as by Impco) available for making your pressure fittings to the carburetor or
fuel-injector as the case may be. You will necessarily be sealing the built-in vents and
making a 1-way air-intake.
The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire’ protection for the reaction
chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are air-tight and holding full pressure
without leakage. Your new ‘system’ is considered successful and properly adjusted when
you get the full power range at lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing the
pressure safety valve.
CHT (or EGT)Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust gas temp)
instead of your original engine temp indicator (if any). Your existing gauge is too slow for
this application and will not warn you against overheating until after you have burnt
something. Make sure that your engine runs no hotter than in the gasoline arrangement.
VDO makes a CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits under your spark plug against the
cylinder head (make sure it is really clean before you re-install your spark plug (as this is
also an electrical ground).
Get the valves replaced with stainless steel ones and get the pistons/cylinders ceramic-
treated ASAP when you have successfully converted and run your new creation. Do not
delay as these items will rust, either by sheer use or by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You
could make max use of your current exhaust system by using it with your new deal until it
rusts through, then have your mechanic or welder friend to fit a stainless steel exhaust
pipe (no catalytic converter is required). But it could be easier and cheaper to send your
existing exhaust system out for the ceramic treatment, and then simply re-attach it to
the exhaust ports.