YOU WILL NEED TO MAKE CAR ON TAP WATER!
YOU WILL NEED
plastic water tank with pump and level sensor.
control circuit, wiring, connectors, and epoxy.
reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.
3/8″ stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps.
carb/FI vapor-pressure fitting kit. – pressure, CHT (or EGT), & level gauges.
stainless steel valves.
copper mesh junction.
ceramic surface treatment for cylinders & pistons.
stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust assembly.
drill, screwdriver and pliers
wire-wrap, solder-iron and clippers
DVM and oscilloscope.
Construct as shown in the diagrams. Use a section of 4″ PVC waste pipe with a threaded
screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the other. Make sure to drill-and-
epoxy or tap threads thru the PVC components for all fittings. Set and control the water
level in the chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some
headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapor pressure. Use stainless steel wires inside
the chamber or otherwise use a protective coating; use insulated wires outside. Ensure
that the epoxy perfects the seal, or otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone
that can hold pressure.
The screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its purpose is to hold
pressure and allow periodic inspection of the electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make sure
you get a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2 stainless steel pipes. The referenced
literature suggests that the closer to 1mm you get, the better. You will want to get your
chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice, smooth, and solid; then apply a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for joining the pipes to the screw cap.
This epoxy must be waterproof and be capable of holding metal to plastic under pressure.
You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.