Updates from Agustus, 2012 Toggle Comment Threads | Pintasan Keyboard

  • tituitcom 23.58 on 8 August 2012 Permalink  

    GENERAL Convret Your Car Tap on Water 

     

    GENERAL
    1. Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline setup components, e.g. tank, carb/FI,
    catalytic converter, unless necessary. Better to always leave an easy way to revert back to
    something that at least runs, just in case. Some people are leaving their gasoline setup
    completely intact, and switching back and forth at will, just to have a backup plan.
    2. Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapor flow at idle, and maximum vapor
    flow at full power without blowing the pressure relief valve. In this way, you control how
    ‘lean’ your mixture is by the strength of the pulse (i.e. “fatness” at the optimum pulse
    frequency).
    3. If you just don’t get enough power (at any throttle setting), it means that you need to
    (1) change the pulse frequency, (2) change the gap between the electrodes, (3) change the
    size (bigger) electrodes, or (4) make a higher output pulse voltage (last resort). Always use
    an output transistor, such as a MOSFET, that is rated for the voltage and current you
    need to get the job done. OK so you might have to play around with it some. Isn’t that
    where all the Fun is anyhow?
    4. If you get any engine knock our loud combustions (not compensated by adjusting the
    timing), it means that you need to install an additional coil in the chamber, and drive the
    coil with an additional pulse signal (about 19 Hz on the .1sec time base (see diagram). Here, you will be slowing down the burn rate just enough so that the vapors burn thru out the
    power stroke of the piston. Be sure to include a board-mount POT to set the correct
    strength of this 2nd pulse signal into the coil. This is a stainless steel coil of about 1500
    turns (thin wire) that you can arrange like a donut around the center pipe (but NOT
    touching either electrode), directly over the circular 1-5mm gap. You want no knocking at
    any power/throttle setting; smooth power only, but also no excess hydrogen leftover from
    the combustion.
    5. Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising your ability to mount them
    conveniently near the dash panel, or in the engine compartment, as the case may be. This
    way, you can always make the electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship.
    Remember that anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-proof,
    vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.
    6. If you have to drill a thru-hole for wiring or plumbing thru metal, make sure to also
    install a grommet for protection against chafing. Always watch your chamber pressure
    range from IDLE (15-25 psi) – FULL POWER (30-60 psi). Set your safety-pressure relief-
    valve to 75 psi and make sure it’s rated for much higher.
    7. Shut OFF the power switch and pull over if there is any malfunction of the system. Your
    engine will last longest when it still develops FULL POWER+ at some minimum temperature
    that we are sure you can find, by leaning back the Royal Vapor Flow and/or by making use
    of the water-vapor cooling technique (see diagram). Keep good mpg performance records,
    and periodic maintenance/inspection. Keep it clean; save some money; clean the air; heal
    the planet; happy motoring; tell a friend; enjoy your freedom and self-empowerment.
    8. There lacks documented material for perfecting this vapor system thru a fuel injector;
    there may be some details you will discover on your own as working prototypes progress.
    For example, you may be restricted to inject the hydrogen/oxygen vapor without any
    water vapor, as it may rust the injectors. If engine temp and CHT is a problem, then you
    will want to re-think your plan, e.g. ceramic-coating the injectors. There is always
    “replacing the FI system with a Carb.”
    9. If you install the water-vapor system (for lower operating temp/stress), you will want
    to lean the mixture (vapor/air) for minimum vapor flow rate to achieve any given throttle
    position (idle – max). Make sure that you get a minimum flow for IDLE and a modestly
    sufficient flow for MAX, that does the cooling job without killing the combustion.
    10. If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations that yield the 1-5mm gap, you can
    always regress back to alternating plates of +/- electrodes.
    11. If you are concerned about the water freezing in your system, you can (a) add some 98% isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency accordingly; or (b) install some
    electric heating coils.
    12. Do not let ANYONE ever compromise your dream, your freedom, your independence or
    your truth.
    REFERENCES
    Stephen Chambers ‘Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or
    Parahydrogen’ US Patent 6126794, uspto.gov
    Stanley Meyer ‘Method for the Production of a Fuel Gas’ US Patent 4936961,
    uspto.gov
    Creative Science & Research, ‘Fuel From Water’, fuelless.com
    Carl Cella “A Water-Fuelled Car” Nexus Magazine Oct-Nov 1996
    Peter Lindemann “Where in the World is All the Free Energy”, free-energy.cc <http://www.free-energy.cc/&gt;
    George Wiseman “The Gas-Saver and HyCO Series” eagle-research.com <http://www.eagle-research.com/&gt;
    C. Michael Holler “The Dromedary Newsletter” and “SuperCarb Techniques”
    Stephen Chambers “Prototype Vapor Fuel System” xogen.com <http://www.xogen.com/&gt;
    COMMON LAW COPYRIGHT #285714: All rights to the use and duplication of these plans are hereby reserved for the People,
    in their efforts to heal and restore the environment. Dare to express your uniqueness and environmental ideals. This
    technology is an exercise in responsible self-determination.
    DISCLAIMER: The Spirit of Ma’at LLC and the Spirit of Ma’at ezine and the author of this document assumes no liability for
    the use or misuse of this information; which is made available as public-domain information and free of charge, for the
    purposes of education, ecology, health, well-being, freedom, liberty, and pursuit of happiness.

     
  • tituitcom 23.53 on 8 August 2012 Permalink  

    CARB/FI CONNECTION 

     CARB/FI CONNECTION The diagram also shows that fittings are required to the carb/FI l. There are ready-made kits (such as by Impco) available for making your pressure fittings to the carburetor or fuel-injector as the case may be. You will necessarily be sealing the built-in vents and making a 1-way air-intake.

    CARB/FI CONNECTION
    The diagram also shows that fittings are required to the carb/FI l. There are ready-made
    kits (such as by Impco) available for making your pressure fittings to the carburetor or
    fuel-injector as the case may be. You will necessarily be sealing the built-in vents and
    making a 1-way air-intake.
    The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire’ protection for the reaction
    chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are air-tight and holding full pressure
    without leakage. Your new ‘system’ is considered successful and properly adjusted when
    you get the full power range at lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing the
    pressure safety valve.
    CHT (or EGT)Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust gas temp)
    instead of your original engine temp indicator (if any). Your existing gauge is too slow for
    this application and will not warn you against overheating until after you have burnt
    something. Make sure that your engine runs no hotter than in the gasoline arrangement.
    VDO makes a CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits under your spark plug against the
    cylinder head (make sure it is really clean before you re-install your spark plug (as this is
    also an electrical ground).
    ENGINE/EXHAUST TREATMENT
    Get the valves replaced with stainless steel ones and get the pistons/cylinders ceramic-
    treated ASAP when you have successfully converted and run your new creation. Do not
    delay as these items will rust, either by sheer use or by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You
    could make max use of your current exhaust system by using it with your new deal until it
    rusts through, then have your mechanic or welder friend to fit a stainless steel exhaust
    pipe (no catalytic converter is required). But it could be easier and cheaper to send your
    existing exhaust system out for the ceramic treatment, and then simply re-attach it to
    the exhaust ports.

     
  • tituitcom 23.41 on 8 August 2012 Permalink  

    CONTROL CIRCUIT CAR ON TAP WATER 

    The diagrams show a simple circuit to control and drive this mini-system. You are going to make a 'square-pulse' signal that 'plays' the electrodes like a tuning fork; which you can watch on an oscilloscope.
    The diagrams show a simple circuit to control and drive this mini-system. You are going to
    make a ‘square-pulse’ signal that ‘plays’ the electrodes like a tuning fork; which you can
    watch on an oscilloscope. The premise given by the literature is: the faster you want do go
    down the road, the ‘fatter’ you make the pulses going into the reaction chamber. Duty
    cycle will vary with the throttle in the vicinity of 90%MARK 10%SPACE (OFF/ON).
    There is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated; there are many ways
    to generate pulses, and the attached diagrams show a few. The diagram shows the NE555-
    circuit approach from the referenced patent. The output switching transistor must be
    rated for 1-5 amps @ 12VDC (in saturation).
    Go with a plan that works for you or your friendly neighborhood technoid or mechanic, and
    go get all the circuit elements from your local electronics store, such as Radio-Shack or
    Circuits-R-Us, including the circuit board, IC sockets, and enclosure/box.
    DigiKey has better selection, service, and knowledge; plus they have no minimum order. Be
    sure to use a circuit board with a built-in ground plane, and to accommodate room for
    mounting 2 or 3 of the gauges. Mounting the reaction chamber in the engine compartment
    will require running a stub to your pressure gauge where you can watch it.
    You can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between the socket pins and thru-
    hole discrete components having wire leads. Also make sure to get spec sheets on any IC
    you use. More details of the best circuits to use will be announced pending prototype
    testing. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap
    on.
    Throttle Control
    If you have a throttle position sensor, you should be able to access the signal from the
    sensor itself OR from the computer connector. This signal is input to the circuit as the
    primary control (i.e. throttle level = pulse width = vapor rate).
    If you don’t have such a signal available, you will have to rig a rotary POT (variable
    resistor) to the gas linkage (i.e. coupled to something at the gas pedal or throttle cable
    running to the carb or FI. If you make the attachment at the carb/FI, be sure to use a
    POT that can handle the engine temp cycles. Don’t use a cheezy-cheapy POT; get one rated for long life and mechanical wear; mount it securely to something sturdy and
    stationary that will not fall apart when you step on the gas.
    Control Range. The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST control the vapor rate, i.e. pulse-
    width (duty). The resistor values at the throttle signal must allow the throttle signal
    voltage, say 1-4 Volt swing, to drive the VAPOR RATE. You will be using this voltage swing
    to generate a 10% ON ‘square’ pulse. The patent implies using a ‘resonant’ pulse in the 10-
    250 KHz frequency range; but it is not explicitly stated so.
    In this circuit, you will simply tune to whatever frequency makes the most efficient vapor
    conversion. You will have to get into the specs for each IC you use, to insure you connect
    the right pins to the right wires, to control the frequency and pulse width. You can use
    spare sockets to try out different discrete component values. Just keep the ones that are
    spec-compatible in the circuit, and get the job done.
    You crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy (fatter pulses) into the
    electrodes; verify you can get 10% duty on the scope (2 – 100 usec on the horizontal time-
    base). Your averaging DVM will display the 90%-10% DC voltage across the output
    transistor (Vce or Vds or Output to Ground). Set and connect DVM in the supply current
    and measure .5 – 5 amps, without blowing the DVM fuse. Now verify that you got
    everything you wanted.
    Verify your wiring connections using your DVM as a continuity detector. Check your wiring
    1 at a time and yellow line your final schematic as you go. You can best use board-mount
    miniature POTs for anything you want to set-and-forget. The LEDs are there to give you a
    quick visual check of normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation. You will want to
    get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
     
  • tituitcom 23.34 on 8 August 2012 Permalink  

    YOU WILL NEED TO MAKE CAR ON TAP WATER! 

     YOU WILL NEED plastic water tank with pump and level sensor. control circuit, wiring, connectors, and epoxy. reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings. 3/8" stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps. carb/FI vapor-pressure fitting kit. - pressure, CHT (or EGT), & level gauges.

    YOU WILL NEED
    plastic water tank with pump and level sensor.
    control circuit, wiring, connectors, and epoxy.
    reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.
    3/8″ stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps.
    carb/FI vapor-pressure fitting kit. – pressure, CHT (or EGT), & level gauges.
    stainless steel valves.
    copper mesh junction.
    ceramic surface treatment for cylinders & pistons.
    stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust assembly.
    BASIC TOOLS
    drill, screwdriver and pliers
    hole cutter
    wire-wrap, solder-iron and clippers
    DVM and oscilloscope.
    REACTION CHAMBER
    Construct as shown in the diagrams. Use a section of 4″ PVC waste pipe with a threaded
    screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the other. Make sure to drill-and-
    epoxy or tap threads thru the PVC components for all fittings. Set and control the water
    level in the chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some
    headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapor pressure. Use stainless steel wires inside
    the chamber or otherwise use a protective coating; use insulated wires outside. Ensure
    that the epoxy perfects the seal, or otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone
    that can hold pressure.
    The screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its purpose is to hold
    pressure and allow periodic inspection of the electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make sure
    you get a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2 stainless steel pipes. The referenced
    literature suggests that the closer to 1mm you get, the better. You will want to get your
    chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
    Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice, smooth, and solid; then apply a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for joining the pipes to the screw cap.
    This epoxy must be waterproof and be capable of holding metal to plastic under pressure.
    You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.

     
  • tituitcom 23.23 on 8 August 2012 Permalink  

    Gasoline versus Water 

    There is a lot of thermochemical energy in gasoline, but there is even more energy in water. The DOE (Department of Energy) has quoted about 40%, so it is probably much more than that.
    There is a lot of thermochemical energy in gasoline, but there is even more energy in
    water. The DOE (Department of Energy) has quoted about 40%, so it is probably much
    more than that.
    Most people are unaware that “internal combustion” is defined as “a thermo-vapor
    process” – as in “no liquid in the reaction.” Most of the gasoline in a standard internal combustion engine is actually consumed, (cooked, and finally, broken down) in the catalytic
    converter after the fuel has been not-so-burnt in the engine. Sadly, this means that most
    of the fuel we use in this way is used only to cool down the combustion process, a pollution-
    ridden and inefficient means of doing that.
    How It Works
    Exceedingly simple. Water is pumped as needed to replenish and maintain the liquid level in
    the chamber. The electrodes are vibrated with a 0.5-5A electrical pulse which breaks
    2(H2O) => 2H2 + O2. When the pressure reaches say 30-60 psi, you turn the key and go.
    You step on the pedal, you send more energy to the electrodes, and thus more vapor to the
    cylinders; i.e. fuel vapor on demand.
    You set the idle max-flow rate to get the most efficient use of power, and you’re off to
    the races.
    In the big picture, your free energy is coming from the tap water in an open system, as
    the latent energy in the water is enough to power the engine and hence drive the
    alternator and whatever belt-driven accessories. And the alternator is efficient enough to
    run the various electrical loads (10 – 20 amps), including the additional low current to run
    this vapor reaction. No extra batteries are required.
    STEP BY STEP CONSTRUCTION (Please refer to diagrams at the end of this document)
    OVERVIEW – Here is the suggested sequence of steps:
    1. Install the CHT (or EGT) gauge and measure your current operating temp range
    (gasoline), for comparison.
    2. Build and test the controller to verify the correct pulse output.
    3. Build the reaction chamber and test it with the controller (i.e pressure out).
    4. Install the tank, controller, chamber, and pressure fittings.
    5. Run engine and adjust the control circuit as necessary for best performance.
    6. Install the stainless steel valves and get the pistons/cylinders coated with ceramic.
    7. Coat the exhaust system with ceramic without the catalytic converter (or let it rust out
    and then replace the whole dang thang with stainless steel pipe sections).
     
  • tituitcom 23.11 on 8 August 2012 Permalink  

    The Plan To Run Your Car On Tap Water! 

     The Plan Build and install a low-cost alternative method for running your vehicle (internal combustion engine) on tap water, using off-the-shelf components. This is simply an efficient way to convert ordinary tap water into gaseous hydrogen and oxygen, and then burn these vapors in the engine, instead of gasoline.

    The Plan
    Build and install a low-cost alternative method for running your vehicle (internal
    combustion engine) on tap water, using off-the-shelf components.
    This is simply an efficient way to convert ordinary tap water into gaseous hydrogen and
    oxygen, and then burn these vapors in the engine, instead of gasoline.
    This “minisystem” runs easily from your existing battery and electrical system, and it
    plugs into your carburetor with simple off-the-shelf fittings.
    You will be installing a plastic water tank, a control circuit, a reaction chamber, a hi-
    pressure carb/FI fitting, and 3 gauges, and then hooking into your existing carb/FI.
    The simplicity comes from its being an “on-demand” system requiring no fancy storage or
    plumbing. You crank the gas pedal or throttle, and you electrically create more vapor for
    immediate consumption, on demand; low-high flow rate as needed, from idle to maximum
    power. The only real change is that you are using tap water as fuel, instead of the
    traditional petroleum-based fuel.
    Given a choice, which way would you choose?
    Frequently Asked Questions
    Q: Does it really work ?
    A: Yes; this is well-established technology dating back to stainless steel. But be sure to
    follow these instructions using the proper mechanical and electrical assembly techniques,
    as this plan incorporates the best qualities of several techniques.
    Q: How does it qualify as “free energy”?
    A: If you’re paying someone for the water you use, then it is not strictly free. But the
    alternative is to keep buying into expen$ive ga$oline and its resultant hydrocarbon
    pollution.Q: Is it safe?
    A: Technically, it is safer than running on fossil fuel because you are no longer choking on
    your own emissions (health-wise). In general, it is practically as safe as your current
    gasoline arrangement. You will be installing a few simple safety devices, using current
    automotive standards.
    Q: What kind of performance can I expect?
    A: Properly adjusted, your modified vapor-only fuel system will run cooler, and at a
    modestly higher power level. The mileage performance expected from this design ranges
    from 50-300 mpg (of water), depending on your adjusting skills.
    Q: Can I do the modification myself?
    A: Why not? If you don’t have any mechanical skills, and you know someone with basic
    mechanical and/or electrical skills, you can even delegate some of the construction. If you
    are using a fuel-injected engine, you may have to get a mechanic’s opinion. [There will have
    to be an adapter inserted into the fuel-injection system, just as you would have to do if
    you were going to run on propane, hydrogen, or natural gas. Ed.)
    Q: What is the environmental impact that my vehicle will have?
    A: It will be producing H20 steam (water vapor) and unburnt O2 (Oxygen). Hence, it will be
    cleaning the environment, rather than dumping nauseous toxins into it. Plus you will be
    helping to save our dwindling supply of atmospheric oxygen. Any excess vapor in the
    reaction becomes either steam or oxygen. You can also expect to be receiving more than
    casual interest from those around you.
    Q: Isn’t this really a steam engine?
    A: No. Really. Exceedingly high temperature and pressure are not used. This is strictly an
    internal-combustion engine (burning orthohydrogen) with residual steam in the exhaust as
    a by-product.
    There are a few things you should know about gasoline:
    Gasoline as a fuel is not necessary; it is optional.

     
  • tituitcom 23.07 on 8 August 2012 Permalink  

    RELIMINARY PLANS TO RUN YOUR CAR ON TAP WATER! 

    IT ALSO WORKS ON YOUR TRUCK / RV / MOTORCYCLE / AIRPLANE (ETC) Will This Work? These plans were sent to the Spirit of Ma'at anonymously, from someone who does not want his or her name printed (for obvious reasons).
    IT ALSO WORKS ON YOUR
    TRUCK / RV / MOTORCYCLE / AIRPLANE (ETC)
    Will This Work?
    These plans were sent to the Spirit of Ma’at anonymously, from someone who does not
    want his or her name printed (for obvious reasons).
    We have had them checked by an expert who believes that they are real.
    We also have talked with another individual who has patented a similar device, and we know
    by personal experience that the technology is sound.
    So although we cannot guarantee it, we believe these plans will enable you to build a car
    that runs on water. If you test it out, though, do as the writer suggests and use an old car
    that doesn’t represent a loss of value if you can’t make it work. And leave everything
    intact so that you can always reconnect back to gas if you have to.
    But if you do get it working, please send us your experience for our readers. You could be
    a national hero and help save our country and our world.
    We know for certain that an automobile will run on water. So this could be an interesting
    project for you mechanical types, with a great reward of never having to purchase gasoline
    for the rest of your life – and helping humanity at the same time.
    Re The Need to Rustproof Your Exhaust System
    It is possible to make a hybrid of both gas and water (a system that is being tested now in
    Mexico), which would eliminate the need to open the head and remove the exhaust system.
    Just a thought. It takes only a small amount of gas to keep the system dry.
    The text sent from the anonymous individual was edited slightly for better reading. The
    following is his/her words and drawings, which has been given into the public domain.
    – Spirit of Ma’at LLC
    Introduction
    It is suggested you try this out to begin with on a second vehicle you own, one that you
    don’t need to live with everyday, until you perfect this technology.
    Do-it-yourself plans allow the individual (that’s you and me, folks) to make a difference.
    This is the easiest and lowest-cost way to convert your car to run on (relatively) free
    energy.

    Now, with existing technology, anyone can stand up and make a difference by reducing the
    local automotive pollution, eliminate gasoline expenses, help restore our atmosphere, and
    breathe a little easier.
    In putting these plans into operation, you will be making use of your entire existing system
    except for the fuel tank and the catalytic converter.

     
  • tituitcom 23.57 on 25 July 2012 Permalink  

    Tips Mengatasi Mobil Mogok 

    Tips Mengatasi Mobil Mogok   Sebagai seorang yang mengemudikan mobil, pastinya Anda pernah merasakan salah satu kejadian paling tidak mengenakkan yang pernah dialami seorang pengemudi mobil yaitu mogok. Kejadian tersebut pastinya sangat menyebalkan,Tips Mengatasi Mobil Mogok  
    Sebagai seorang yang mengemudikan mobil, pastinya Anda pernah merasakan
    salah satu kejadian paling tidak mengenakkan yang pernah dialami seorang
    pengemudi mobil yaitu mogok. Kejadian tersebut pastinya sangat
    menyebalkan, terutama bila Anda sedang diburu waktu untuk bisa segera
    sampai di suatu tempat. Ditambah kenyataan bahwa Anda kurang paham
    mengenai seluk-beluk mesin, komplit sudah penderitaan. 
    Untuk mengatasinya (terutama bagi Anda yang tidak
    mengerti mesin mobil), ada tips- tips singkat yang mungkin bisa dilaksanakan.
    Siapa tahu, dengan pengetahuan baru ini, kerusakan yang dialami mobil tidak
    parah dan masih bisa diakali supaya bisa jalan sampai ke bengkel terdekat.
    Lagipula, Anda tentunya tidak ingin mobil kesayangan (atau mungkin satu-
    satunya) ditaruh di sebuah tempat yang asing bukan? Berikut kiat-kiatnya
    1.  Periksa power listrik di koil apakah tersambung atau tidak 
    2.  Lihat distributor dan tempel ke bodi mobil, kemudian starter mobil mengecek ada
    power/percikan listrik atau tidak. 
    3.  Bila tidak ada, periksa bagian platina apakah kotor/tidak. 
    4.  Ulangi langkah kedua, kalau ada pengapian berarti mobil
    siap jalan. 
    5.  Bila masih juga mogok coba cek bahan bakar. Ambil botol,
    masukkan selang bensin ke botol lalu starter mobil. Kalau
    bensin keluar, berarti bahan bakar masih berfungsi baik. 
    6.  Bila tidak keluar, berarti pompa/saringan bensin kotor.
    Kalau sudah begini tidak bisa lain, telepon bengkel
    langganan supaya mobil Anda bisa diderek dan diperbaiki.

     
  • tituitcom 23.52 on 25 July 2012 Permalink  

    Membersihkan Jamur dari Kaca Mobil 

    Membersihkan Jamur dari Kaca Mobil   Kaca mobil adalah salah satu bagian kendaraan yang sangat penting, karena bisa menjaga kita agar terhindar dari sinar ultra violet atau air hujan yang kerap muncul pada saat tidak terduga. Membersihkan Jamur dari Kaca Mobil  
    Kaca mobil adalah salah satu bagian kendaraan yang sangat penting, karena
    bisa menjaga kita agar terhindar dari sinar ultra violet atau air hujan yang
    kerap muncul pada saat tidak terduga. Tak heran bila bagian ini nyaris selalu
    terlihat kotor, namun hal ini tidak bisa dibiarkan. Kaca yang terlalu lama tidak
    dibersihkan akan menjadi kusam dan menjadi tempat tumbuhnya jamur. 
    Untuk menghindarinya, bersihkan kaca mobil Anda
    dengan teratur dalam jangka waktu tertentu (kalau perlu
    setiap hari di musim hujan). Untuk melakukannya tidak perlu ke salon
    kecantikan mobil, sebab hanya butuh benda-benda sederhana yang bisa
    diperoleh dari dalam rumah seperti sabun mandi cair dan spons pembersih.
    Berikut adalah kiat- kiat jitu membersihkan kaca supaya terhindar dari jamur. 
    Langkah pertama adalah membasuh bagian permukaan kaca yang terkena
    noda/kotoran dengan air bersih. Untuk melakukannya, gunakan lap yang tidak berserat sebab
    permukaan kasar pada lap berserat bisa membuat kaca Anda yang tadinya mulus jadi tergores dan
    meninggalkan bekas. Berikan sabun (biasanya sabun cair yang telah dicampur dengan air) ke
    permukaan kaca, kemudian lap sampai busa merata. 
    Untuk membilasnya, siram air ke permukaan kemudian disusul oleh
    pengeringan dengan menggunakan lap. Untuk fase ini, usahakan supaya lap
    tidak basah. Dengan demikian, kaca jadi bebas dari noda dan karat. Sebagai
    langkah perawatan, hindari memarkir mobil dalam keadaan terjemur langsung
    oleh terik matahari karena bisa mempercepat proses timbulnya jamur.
    Kemudian, setiap habis bepergian, jangan lupa bersihkan mobil dengan
    menggunakan lap atau kemoceng. Dan terakhir, jangan lupa untuk
    membersihkan kaca mobil minimal dua minggu sekali (tentunya selain dicuci).

     
  • tituitcom 23.48 on 25 July 2012 Permalink  

    Tips Perbaiki AC 

    Tips Perbaiki AC    AC dalam sebuah kendaraan roda empat, lambat laun menjadi sebuah kebutuhan. Dan fungsinya pun sudah tidak bisa dikompromikan lagi. karenanya jika AC mobil tak berfungsi dengan baik terkadang awak kendaraan jadi serba salah. Bila kaca dibuka debu dan asap kendaraan masuk. Sementara jika ditutup, maka rasa pengap akan menyerang. Tips Perbaiki AC 
    AC dalam sebuah kendaraan roda empat, lambat laun menjadi sebuah
    kebutuhan. Dan fungsinya pun sudah tidak bisa dikompromikan lagi.
    karenanya jika AC mobil tak berfungsi dengan baik terkadang awak
    kendaraan jadi serba salah. Bila kaca dibuka debu dan asap kendaraan
    masuk. Sementara jika ditutup, maka rasa pengap akan menyerang.
    Nah untuk mengatasi kendala yang disebutkan, ada tips singkat yang kira-
    nya dapat dilakukan sebagai alternatif sebelum memeriksakan kendaraan
    Anda pada tangan ahlinya. Sebelumnya mungkin ada sejumlah gangguan yang dapat timbul hingga
    fungsi AC tidak dapat bekerja secara optimal. Gangguan pada AC biasanya dikarenakan saluran
    buang evaporator tersumbat dan penyebabnya sendiri yakni :
    Saluran karet terimpit atau melintir.
    Air buangan akan berbalik naik, ketika saluran penuh air akan meluap dan saluran lepas
    dari outlet meski   telah dilengkapi klem.
    Tersumpal kotoran.
    Saluran buang bisa tersumpal lumpur karena ujung saluran ini berada di kolong mobil.
    Saluran itu lepas dari pipa outlet evaporator.
    Nah untuk mengatasinya adalah sbb :
    1.  Siapkan obeng kembang (+), lalu buka pilar penutup utama kanan dan kiri yang biasanya
    berwarna senada dengan interior.
    2.  Buka penutup AC kanan dan kiri dengan obeng. Lalu lepas penutup sakelar AC dengan
    membuka 2 buah sekrup. Kemudian lepas 8 sekrup pemegang dan 4 penutup saluran
    masuk serta saluran buang blower.
    3.  Buka 13 sekrup tutup blower bagian bawah, lakukan hal ini dengan teliti dan jangan
    dipaksa saat mencabutnya.
    4.  Periksa dan bersihkan tutup itu dengan lap kering. Amati slang yang terjepit, melintir atau
    lepas, lalu perbaiki posisinya hingga tak lagi terjadi gangguan.
    5.  Pastikan kompresor ujung slang bersih dari kotoran. Kemuaidna rangkai kembali semua
    komponen dengan teliti.
    Nah mudah bukan…? Selamat mencoba
    JANGAN DI HAPUS

     
c
Compose new post
j
Next post/Next comment
k
Previous post/Previous comment
r
Balas
e
Sunting
o
Show/Hide comments
t
Pergi ke atas
l
Go to login
h
Show/Hide help
shift + esc
Batal